Honeymoon Mountain Biking Road Trip to the PNW, AKA #Toasterroadtrip

June 24, the morning of my wedding to Lynn, I awoke to rising song of a Swainson’s Thrush, a sound I’d come to associate with Point Reyes. On my parent’s property, the lush green of the forest was broken up by a rainbow of flowers, but tall stalks with delicate rows of hanging pink bells – foxglove – always caught my eye.

That bird song and those flowers would follow Lynn and me as we worked our way up through Oregon, Washington, Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast on our month-long honeymoon – the latter occasionally standing six-foot tall and smacking me in the face as we road through them on Bellingham’s Galbraith mountain bike trails.

It’s safe to say this has been the best summer of my life. Our wedding was all I could ask for, and our honeymoon was a dream trip. Sure, it was stressful planning the wedding and the nearly 3,000-mile trip immediately after, but Lynn deserves most of the credit for both.

After about seven hours on trusty old I-5 North in the trusty green toaster (my Honda Element), our first stop was Ashland, Oregon. I’d like to tell you the below view back to Mt. Shasta was from our campsite – but while I found out the Mt. Ashland campground was open – I missed the fine print that said that the road beyond where I took this photo to the campground was closed.

Looking at Shasta from Mt. Ashland.

Instead, we pitched our tent, strung our hammock and settled into the lower elevations of Emigrant Lake among the oaks and golden grass. Mountain biking – the main focus of the trip – didn’t go according to plan in Ashland either. We had the idea of catching a shuttle up the mountain to spend more time pointed downhill, but it turned out the shuttle operation was closed for the week. So we filled our hydration packs, clipped into our pedals and ground up a hot, steep road before turning down Jabberwocky, a big, machine-built flow trail getting a lot of well-deserved attention.

Our Ashland campground.

After a stop at Caldera Brewing and another night in camp, we turned north again, leaving I-5 for the coast, following the Umpqua River west to camp in the woods near Oregon’s famous dunes. The bikes stayed locked to the car as we worked our way through Yachats, poked around tidepools and visited the Oregon Coast Aquarium before camping just south of Newport.

Oregon Coast.

Before crossing into Washington, Buoy Brewing in Astoria proved to be our favorite brewery of the trip, and the drive into the Olympic Peninsula fulfilled one of my long-standing travel goals. My parents bought us two nights at the Lake Quinault Lodge as a wedding present – one of the grand old lodges like Old Faithful or Timberline, or whatever they’re calling the Ahwahnee Hotel now.

We hiked along the Hoh River, and I wished I could join the parties with big packs, ice axes and crampons to see the high mountains of the park. Next time.

I teased Lynn, a North Westerner born and raised, about the incessant sunny weather on the trip, casting doubt on the rain in Hoh Rain Forest. The dense trees, unending fern mats and dripping moss poked a few holes in my argument though.

Crowds and hipster nonsense photo shoots couldn’t ruin Ruby Beach.

Ruby Beach.

My first proper PNW ferry ride took the toaster, Lynn and me to Vancouver Island, and I got my first taste of Canada when the customs agent asked if we had any alcohol, and laughed at my reply of “maybe 2 beers?”

Canadian drivers don’t mess around – only giving the choice of 50 kph in the slow lane or 110 in the fast (when 80 kph was the signed limit), but the drive up the east coast of the island was beautiful, as was our first campsite – Englishman River Falls Provincial Park.

The view driving up the east coast of Vancouver Island.

Provincial Parks on the island were spotless, and there’s no rushing back and forth between claiming a campsite, filling out forms and paying at the gate. A friendly staffer came around, registered us and collected our money – noting our American license plate and offering sincere apologies for our political fumbles.

He didn’t abide by noisy campers, either, strictly enforcing the 10 p.m. quite hours, which I appreciated to no end.

The Hammerfest mountain bike trail network laid right outside the state park gate, pedalable from our campsite. A grind up a loose, steep logging road opened up a spiderweb-like network of singletrack to pick from on the way back down. Our first taste of Vancouver Island mountain biking, and it was a blast – dark woods, soft soil, berms, whoops and roots.

@tahoefabulous getting after the dark and loamy on the #hammerfesttrails of #vancouverisland . #mountainbiking #toasterroadtrip

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Farther north, the three Cs of Courtenay, Comox and Cumberland was our next destination. Cumberland’s mountain bike trail network was definitely one of the best of the trip, while the sea-side parks of Comox were beautiful when we needed to give the bikes a brake.

Our last campsite of the island was a little farther north still, in Elk Falls Provincial Park just outside of Campbell River. A techy, sometimes overgrown rolling cross-country trail broke up the fireroad up, singletrack down formula we’d followed so far on the trip.

Elk Falls.

It wasn’t our plan, but much of our trip put us a day ahead or a day behind the BC Bike Race – a multi-day crosscountry mountain bike race with 600 participants. Sometimes that meant we had helpful pink tape to follow in the complex trail networks of the island and Sunshine Coast. Sometimes it meant a trail had just been hammered by 600 people. But mostly it reaffirmed Lynn had picked the best mountain biking destinations in the region.

BC Coastal Range from the ferry

Our next ferry delivered us to Powell River at the northern end of the Sunshine Coast. It was a beautiful boat ride with views back at the glaciated peaks above Cumberland and toward the improbably pointy and dramatic BC Coastal Range ahead. We even saw some sort of whale or porpoise spouting in the distance on the glassy Salish Sea.

The toaster on the ferry.

Freehub Magazine, a mountain bike magazine out of Bellingham which produces some great videos – first brought the Sunshine Coast to my attention. Small, remote communities in lush, dripping woods surrounded by a network of mountain bike trails – it sounded too good to be true.

@tahoefabulous on the bridge of #alohatrail in #powellriverbc #mountainbiking #toasterroadtrip

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And while it was beautiful and we got some great riding in, there was a catch. Opening up the Trailforks trail map app on my phone, we were faced with an inscrutable tangle of trails, making left or right at the fork decisions seemingly every 100 feet or so. And inevitably, we made some bad choices – whether it was finding ourselves neck-deep in thorny blackberry brambles, or me taking the two worst spills of the trip – back to back – on maybe the worst trail I’ve ever ridden.

That goes with the territory riding new places, however, and we still had a great time. We also took a break from the bikes to paddle around Sechelt Inlet. A guide shepherded us through narrow passages, around rocky islands with native petroglyphs, over jellyfish blooms and sea stars. We even saw a mink fishing at the water’s edge.

#kayaking in #secheltbc with @tahoefabulous – it can't all be #mountainbiking on the #toasterroadtrip #beautifulbritishcolumbia

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Two more ferries south landed us at the southern end of the Sea-to-Sky Highway up through Squamish and Whistler, one of the most beautiful drives on a trip full of beautiful drives. I gawked at the huge granite cliffs and towering snow-covered peaks just above town, the glacier-green sound just below.

Armored up and flat pedals fixed, we headed for Whistler Bike Park, one of mountain biking’s hallowed meccas. While Lynn was fully in the zone, I felt like a Joey most of the day. I found myself walking some steeps on blues. Blues!

Every time we re-enter America, it makes third world banana republic bureaucracy look efficient, and this time was no different. Oh well, on to Bellingham to stay with Corey and Becca!

Photo by Corey Vannoy

Corey showed me the ropes on a side of Galbraith I hadn’t ridden before while Lynn took the day off the bike, and it was unsurprisingly great. Throw in a visit to Kulshan Brewing, a barbecue on Lake Watcom with Tommy and Morgan and a visit to Transition Bikes (who sent us wedding presents, how cool is that!) and you pretty much have why we try to get to Bellingham at least once a year.

A drive through the North Cascades was also high on my to-do list, and the alpine peaks begged for more exploration. We were both excited to check out Winthrop and its growing mountain bike scene, but east-side heat and smoke from Canadian wildfire prompted us to cut our stay short and head for Reardan to stay with Lynn’s parents.

Lynn in the North Cascades.

The toaster’s brakes were pretty much, well, toast when we screeched to a halt in Reardan. Fortunately, Lynn’s dad’s friend – a mechanic at the school’s bus garage – was extremely kind in helping us (OK, we helped him by occasionally turning a screwdriver and staying out of the way) replace the rotors and pads.

We had a second wedding reception in a beautiful barn down the road from Lynn’s folks for all the friends and family in Eastern Washington that couldn’t make the trip to California, and then hit the road again – pointed south for Hood River.

Driving west along the Columbia, the flat-sided toaster complete with Yakima sail Rocketbox buffeted in the wind that makes Hood River a kite surfing destination, the transition from east-side brown to west-side green came quick, and after a brewery stop for dinner we climbed up to Kingsley Reservoir Campground for the night.

Our time was running out and we wanted to break the drive home up with another stop in Bend, so we only went for a short ride on Dirt Surfer at the top of the Post Canyon trail network. After a few dirt roads generally wrecked by the moto crowd, we were both amazed by the singletrack – we’ll definitely be back.

As with last summer, our last campground was Smith Rock State Park, one of our favorite campgrounds, and just 45 minutes from Bend. An obligatory visit to Crux, a really cool chat with the guys at Crowsfeet Commons and a walk along the Deschutes River reminded us why Bend is such a special place.

Faced with the end of the trip, I had to remind myself we were heading home to Truckee – not a bad thing at all. Still, I was ready to do laundry, take a shower and head back out on the road. Once you hit the rhythm of a trip like this, it’s hard to give it up.

 

 

 

Mountain Bike Coaching with A Single Track Mind (Video)

I recently worked with Dylan Renn, who started up his own Mountain Bike Coaching Business, A Single Track Mind, to put together a video about his work:

Lynn made a guest-star appearance, and picked up some great pointers along the way.

I was impressed with Dylan’s coaching style and really enjoyed putting this together. Go to www.asingletrackmind.com to find out more.

MTB in the PNW – An Oregon-Washington Road Trip

I’ve been a Sierra snob for a while now. And a California snob too. But Lynn has dutifully, gradually opened my eyes to the Pacific Northwest – a few quick family and friend trips to Seattle, Reardan and Bellingham, and an impromptu road trip to Bend in the middle of winter.

In July, we bit off a bigger chunk of the PNW, linking together Oakridge, Bellingham, Leavenworth, Reardan and Bend with a mountain bike theme over the course of a little more than a week. That’s a lot of miles, a lot of hours behind the wheel, but also a pretty incredible swath of country outside my usual roaming territory.

Seven-plus hours in my packed flying toaster (#toasterroadtrip) on the back roads of north-eastern California and Southern Oregon delivered us to Oakridge, a small, sleepy one-time logging town that’s been the topic of a lot of talk on the economic engine that is mountain bike tourism.

Sure enough, after setting up the tent and hammock in the lush green moss-veiled forest campground just up Salmon Creek from town, we found ourselves in the local brewpub (Brewers Union Local 180) among many other Northern Californians from the Bay Area, Nevada City and elsewhere.

 

Shuttle booked for the famed Alpine Trail, we hit the sleeping pad early in a mercifully quiet campground, and woke up early the next morning.

The Alpine Trail did not disappoint. The shuttle (Oregon Adventures) grunted and bounced us up a dirt road into the soil-soaking clouds – the driver stopping a couple times to explain trail crossings and intersections. Soft, black loamy dirt and a brisk first climb delivered us to a cool, foggy meadow with views to other wooded ridges decorated in wisps of mist.

Not a technical trail like, say, the Downieville Downhill, smooth, flowing singletrack with great berms and occasional steeps and tight switchbacks quickly had me counting this as one of my favorite rides. As we lost elevation, soil occasionally gave way to loose shale or dry dirt with a few sections of steep exposure off the side. And while the majority of the 14 miles were downhill, both Lynn and I were spent by the time we were done.

Another long drive through some Portland and Seattle area traffic landed us in Lynn’s college town of Bellingham, Washington. The last trip here in February sold Lynn on her Transition Smuggler, and she was eager to bring it back to its native habitat – Galbraith. This time our loop of SST was dryer and we were both a little quicker, but I did enjoy the tackier winter conditions of our first trip. Amazing trail building really keeps you on your toes – and while I love my Trance – I did kind of miss the Transition Patrol I demoed last time. Must resist.

The drive up Highway 2, over Stevens Pass, had this Sierra snob wide-eyed on our way to Leavenworth Washington, where we met up with Lynn’s parents and friends. One of her friends, Tommy, lead us on the Freund Trail. Starting off in quickly rising temperatures and a longer, steeper climb than we’d done in a while had me doubting, but once the trail turned downhill into an endless series of berms and whoops, I took it all back. Lynn said it was her favorite ride of the trip, and while it didn’t dethrone Alpine Trail for me, it was a blast.

On the Wenatchee River. #toasterroadtrip

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After a stop in Reardan, Washington near Spokane, where Lynn grew up, we pointed south, crossing into Oregon at The Dalles, and set up the tent in a familiar favorite – Smith Rock State Park, just north of Bend. While we brought a rope, harnesses, shoes and other climbing sundry, the crowds and heat dissuaded us from tackling Smith Rock’s amazing walls. Instead, we spent our days mostly in Bend, checking out breweries, hitting up some great restaurants, and sampling the Phil’s Trail Network.

Early morning at #smithrock #toasterroadtrip

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This area was decidedly XC compared to our previous destinations. Starting up the smooth and gradual Ben’s, we cut over on Voodoo into some chunky and awkward terrain before a seated pedal “downhill” on Phil’s. I’m betting this is a network that takes some time to suss out the best stashes and sequences.

A day after getting back to Truckee and I’m already poking around the internet, looking at videos of Ashland, Oregon and Issaquah, Washington, pondering the next trip. I think I might be willing to expand my territorial range in a northwesterly fashion.

The baby bear to the momma bear in my last post. #leavenworth #pnwonderland #toasterroadtrip #latergram

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Transition Patrol Demo Review + Galbraith Ride

Transition Bikes have been on Lynn’s and my radar for a while now, not only because they’re from her neck of the woods, but because we’ve seen a lot of solid reviews and get a vibe from the company that we both appreciate – fun first.

With a trip up to Bellingham, Washington planned, Lynn called ahead to see if we could demo some bikes – for her, to find out if the Transition Smuggler was what she wanted in a 29er trail bike (we rode the Trek Remedy and Trek Fuel a while back), and for me to ride whatever awesome bike I felt like, in this case the Transition Patrol.

We walked into their unassuming warehouse on a drizzly Friday afternoon, got our pedals on, suspension dialed in and seats adjusted, then handed them $20 each that goes entirely to local trails.

That was a $20 well spent, it turns out, as Galbraith, a dense and extensive network of Bellingham trails, was awesome.

We went full enduro with clear-lensed Smith Squad MTB goggles (more on those down the road) and pedaled up the trail. This was my first time on a really slack (65 degree head angle) enduro-y bike with a super short stem and 800 mm bar, and I was curious if the archetype lived up to the hype, or if they were wasted on all but the most extreme terrain.

While I can’t speak for the whole 6-inch travel slack, long and low genre, the Transition Patrol was definitely not hype.

Climbing was a pleasant surprise, which, for my 6’3″ self at least, was largely due to the steep seat tube angle, which kept me over the cranks, not hanging out over the rear hub. The suspension always moved slightly with each pedal stroke, no matter the position of the climb lever, but never excessively, or to the detriment of forward progress.

Even the long, slack front end didn’t wander as much I worried it would. Being generally out of shape and not having a lot of time on one-by drivetrains, I was wishing for an easier gear or two, but other than that, there isn’t much to say about the way up.

Then we got to a trail named Family Fun Center on our way to SST and Golden Spike, where the fun really began. My bike, a Giant Trance 27.5 isn’t some old-school XC geometry relic. In fact it’s pretty awesome. But the stupid stuff the Patrol let me get away with left me grinning ear to ear – whether it was dipping a bar into a bermed turn or letting it roll over a steep drop without really checking out what happened on the other side.

Quick in the corners yet stable enough to save my bacon in some rough spots, playful yet burly, it would be fair to say this short ride left me impressed. Next time I’d set up the suspension a touch softer (never bottomed out on either end), and had no idea how to make a 1-point turn around a couple of switch backs at the end of the ride, but I can see how this bike could be a quiver-of-one for many riders.

Tight chainstays are all the rage these days, and while I’m no manualing monster, it made small corrections and steering from the hips a little easier than on bikes like my Trance or the Remedy.

As for the trail itself – a couple slick, muddy spots were to be expected this time of year, but the mix of tech and flow were really something. I can see why backyard trails like these shaped Transition bikes the way they have.

I’m not in the market for a new bike, but I’ll be taking some lessons away from my time on the Transition, with plans for a shorter stem, wider bars and a couple suspension tweaks in the works. If I were in the market, my usually conservative tastes might be swayed by this big goofy-fun bike.

As for Lynn, who was testing for more serious purposes – well I’m sure she’ll write up here own review, but I think the Smuggler may have unseated the Remedy for her number one contender.

Photo credit: Lynn Baungartner

Marin Museum of Bicycling & Mountain Bike Hall of Fame

Over the holidays Lynn and I decided to make a side trip to the Marin Museum of Bicycling in Fairfax, about a 40 minute drive from Point Reyes.

I’ve written previously about how mountain biking came to be the first sport I really fell in love with, and I remember pouring over bike magazines and dreaming of some of the wild and wacky mountain bike designs that came out of the sports adolescence. Around the same time I found out about the museum, I was tasked with some research for the proposed Squaw Valley Olympic Heritage Museum.

I called down to the folks in Fairfax to find out what it was like getting started, raise funds, and decide on displays, events and other aspects of running a museum dedicated to outdoor sports. To say I was surprised when I was given a phone number for Joe Breeze, a founding father of mountain biking, would be an understatement. We played phone tag at first – he was doing trivial things like attending Interbike and giving one of his bikes to the Pope – but we eventually connected, and he was incredibly helpful, friendly and just plane fun to talk to.

Lynn suggested the trip over to Fairfax from Point Reyes where we were spending the holidays, and we took the pretty, redwood-lined drive down Sir Francis Drake Blvd, parked, took pictures with the monster Ibis Mojo, and went inside.

The museum has two basic displays – one taking visitors through the early history of the bicycle, from wood-spoked velocipedes and tall penny-farthings  to the first bicycles resembling the modern, and a second working its way through the history of mountain bikes from the first fat tired franken-bike to about the late 90s or early 2000s. There were treasures like the first Kestrel carbon fiber mountain bike, a Trek Y-bike (my first full suspension), the beautiful Ibis BowTi, my late 90s dream bike the Mountain Cycles San Andreas, an early Mert Lawill suspension designed Gary Fisher and many more.

Both were fascinating, but we spent more time poring over the mountain bike display with its rich history of the Larkpur Canyon Gang, the Repack downhill, the first attempts at things like suspension, composite materials and better brakes were all fascinating and nostalgic for me.

The volunteer staff were friendly and excited to share information, trade stories and show mountain bike videos while we were there.

The museum is a must-see for any mountain biker. Lynn and I will definitely be back, next time with bikes in tow to ride the historic Repack or the newer Tamarancho trails.

Donner Ski Ranch Mountain Bike Park

Earlier this summer, I stumbled across a Facebook page titled “The Bike Park at DSR” and was excited to see Donner Ski Ranch appeared to be building a mountain bike park, and I started making some calls.

I eventually was put in touch with Jim “Hacksaw” Severt, the builder behind the new park, who invited Lynn and I out to shuttle the new trails as they prepared to open next summer. I wrote a story in the Sierra Sun detailing how the plan came to be and what it will look like when lifts spin next summer.

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We offloaded at the top where Severt and Clif McMilan, another trailbuilder, lead the group down the two trails. The first pitch was steep and I was nervous going first with my big camera on my back, but the trail was smooth and fun.

Clif on the trail.

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Our Own Worst Enemies

I chuckle every time I read mountain bikers grousing about the Sierra Club, backcountry skiers complaining about losing parking to Caltrans or climbers losing access to evil private land owners.

Not because these aren’t real problems – access for these sports is an ongoing struggle. But it isn’t environmentalists, the government, property owners or even equestrians that are our worst enemies. We are.

I’m talking about backcountry skiers cutting down trees. Or climbers littering in the Buttermilks, or also chopping down trees. Mountain bikers? We really can’t get out of our own way, skidding trails in every video, miles of poorly designed illegal trail or the perception issues surrounding the Redbull Rampage.

And yet so many take to the internet to complain about the forces that be ruining our sports. The real forces are those who show up, participate. Work with trail stewardship groups, land trusts or the Access Fund.

The picture TAMBA posted – click the image to see the Facebook post.

We need that kind of responsibility and leadership if we want progress with land owners and policy makers. Tantrums aren’t going to do it, and illegally cutting down trees will only set us back.

Recently the Tahoe Area Mountain Bike Association wrote: “‘Quit sanitizing the trails’ is a common online cry, usually by people rarely seen at trail days. Here’s our latest section of trail built on the Stanford Rock reroute we’ve been working on this summer. Safe, sustainable, and challenging, but not sanitized.” on Facebook.

I think that post speaks volumes about the two types of people in these outdoor sports, and in life in general.

The organizations like TAMBA that can make a positive changes are out there. The fruitful partnerships with the U.S. Forest Service and other property managers are being made. We just need to chip in and participate. Unfortunately, some of us may need to get out of our own way first.